Introduction: The Fuzz of 1000 Faces

For a interminable time I have been a devotee of the Multi-Face Pedal and have been having diverting exploring the different nuances of fuzz by swapping around parts happening a breadboard. However, I wanted to make a more lasting fuzz bicycle that I could use to toggle through different capacitors and transistors very quick. I came up with this design, which involves 4 circle switches. In this way, I am able to apace achieve 1,296 rockin' combinations. Hence, being a bull cycle with lots of combination, it was gum olibanum aptly named "The Fuzz of 1000 Faces."

Tone 1: Go Get Block

You wish need:

(x1) PCB
(x1) Hacked Radioshack Illuminated Switch
(x1) potentiometers (5K, 10K, 100K)
(x2) 100K resistance
(x1) 10K resistance
(x2) instrumentation magnetic disc capacitors (0.01uF, 0.047uF, 0.1uF)
(x2) electrolytic capacitors (1uF, 4.7uF, 10uF)
(x2) BC337
(x2) BC547
(x2) 2N5088
(x2) 2N2222
(x2) 2N3904
(x2) 2N2102
(x1) DPDT relay
(x4) 2P6P rotary switch
(x4) Old knobs
(x3) White knobs
(x1) Hammond size-DD enclosure
(x1) Metal spray undercoat
(x1) Pink spray rouge
(x1) Brushes
(x1) Testor tooth enamel paint and thinner
(x1) Fine point paint pens
(x1) 18" x 12" cork
(x1) 18" x 12" rubber
(x1) Soldering setup
(x1) Drill press
(x1) Work bench vise
(x1) Painter's tape
(x1) Varicoloured wire
(x1) misc tools and cleaning supplies

(Around of the links happening this foliate contain Amazon affiliate links. This does not change the price of the particular to you, but I do realise a small commission if you click on any of those links and buy anything. I reinvest this money into materials and tools for future projects.)

Measure 2: Prepare the Top for Drilling

If you don't have a laser cutter, download the attached single file called multiFuzzPrint. Mark information technology come out of the closet and tape it down centered upon your DD-threepenny natural enclosure.

If you materialize to have access to a laser cutting tool, download the file named MultiFuzz. Cover your enclosure in painter's mag tape. Etch the design upon the enclosure such that it is perfectly centered.

Step 3: Drill the Top

Clinch the enclosing into a bench vise and clinch the bench vise down to the bon of your drill press.

Drill the four holes for the rotary converter switches with a 3/8" drill scra.

Drill the 3 holes for the potentiometers with a 9/32" drill bit. As wel use the 9/32" bit to drill a pilot hole for the stomp switch.

At long last, drill impermissible the stomp permutation hole to the proper diameter with a 1/2" bit.

Step 4: Drill the Sides

Again, if you don't have a laser cutter, download and mark KO'd MultiFuzzSidePrint. Cut out these templates and tape it to the sides of the natural enclosure such that there is an audio jack on each short side and a power change over on the long-lasting back side.

If you have a laser cutter, then download MultiFuzzSide. Etch these files onto painters tape and then vector cut around the edges. Peel up the templet and stick them to the enclosure such that they are centered connected each side appropriately.

Drill the audio jack holes with a 3/8" drill bit. Mandrillus leucophaeus the hole for the power switch with a 1/4" drill bit.

Step 5: Gum elastic Angle bracket

For those of you with a laser stonecutter, simply download MultiFuzzRubberBracket and cut IT out of 1/16" santoprene rubber.

The following settings with my Epilog 75W laser cutter:

Power: 20
Speed: 80
Relative frequency: 1000

If you father't have a laser cutter, you can download MultiFuzzRubberPrint and try on to use information technology as a template to cut out the rubber. Nevertheless, I highly recommend that you find a manufacturing Robert William Service that will gash out the file for you.

Ill-trea 6: Prepare the Case

Groom the case for painting by sanding and scraping the outer surface with sandpaper and a rocky-wire brush.

Ultimately, wipe it down with a cloth covered in acetone to take away all of the unwanted coating from the enclosure.

Step 7: Prime the Case

Evenly spray the extraneous of the case with a priming to forestall rusting.

Footfall 8: Spray Paint

One time the fuzee is dry, spraying the outside of the case with a list of coats of pink spray paint until IT is flush and pretty-like.

Step 9: Start Detailing

Draw your design onto the lawsuit very softly with pencil.

Step 10: Tooth enamel Painting

When you are happy with your design, blusher it on exploitation Testors enamel paint that is commonly used for mannikin cars. For fine detailing, like thin black lines, I highly recommend using paint pens.

Considering this is the Fuzz of 1,000 Faces, I thought information technology might follow appropriate to cut through information technology in faces.

Step 11: Prep the Circuit Board

Cut out the racing circuit board in half as you wish only pauperism incomplete of it. A paper cutter whole kit and boodle well for cutting racing circuit boards. If you don't have a paper cutter, regular old scissors work on pretty well too.

Dance step 12: Build the Circuit

The circuit is basically a fuzz face clone founded on the Multi-Face. However, rather than feature sockets to swap out transistors and capacitors, I have just tense in 6 presets for each (where the socket would have been) and successful it so that I can toggle through rotary switches.

Basically, at this point, build the circuit subtraction the rotary switches and the potentiometers. You keister wire those in later and it will save you muddiness and headaches.

The one thing that I forgot to imbibe into schematic was that I exploited a DPDT relay and a SPST lighted switch as opposed to the standard DPDT true bypass stomp switch that is normally utilized in guitar pedals.

Step 13: Wire the Switches

Attach wires to the rotary converter switches.

The switches have 2 pairs of six outer terminals and those six terminals connect to one of the two center terminals. Basically, when you turn the jockey, unrivalled of the six outer terminals make electric contact to one of the inwardness terminals.

That said, on two of the switches, connect 6 wires to a one of the sets of outer switches and one wire to the corresponding center switch. Install these into the two outer positions of the case as pictured (don't forget to install the rubber bracket betwixt the switch and the case).

So, for the two center switches, connect wires to all of the terminals. It helps if you color code information technology so you can tell the pigeonholing of wires apart.

Step 14: Wire It Complete Collectively

Link wires to the potentiometers as shown and then install them in the cause.

Also connect wires to the jackass and stomp swop and install those Eastern Samoa wellspring.

At length, connect everything to the circuit board American Samoa expedient (as per the schematic down the stairs).

Footstep 15: Cork Insulation

If you have a laser cutter, download fuzzcorkcut and trim down that shape out of a piece of cork.

If you don't give birth a laser cutter, download fuzzcorkprint and print it out and use it A a templet to cut the cork.

Put on and/or glue the Cork in the center of the lid. This will prevent the electrical circuit board from shorting down on the metal case.

Abuse 16: Coating Touches

Plug in your battery. Jamming everything internal and tighten the case shut.

Put some gaffers or masking paper on a pair of pliers and user that to tighten the balmy for the switches, potentiometers and sound jackstones. This will foreclose the case from getting scratched.

Securely fasten the knobs onto the shafts for the potentiometers and rotary switches. Label the roundabou switches as pat with a paint pen.

Finally, I recommend placing coherent rubber pads on the nether to keep the bottom of the case from getting scuffed up.

Plug in and enjoy.

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